Freak Wave 특성 파악을 위한 파랑관측 자료의 분석

Abstract

This study is carried out the investigation of nonlinear characteristics of the field wave observation data acquired in the western sea area in Jeju island during one year. It is aimed to offer the fundamental data for Freak wave forecasting in real sea. For this, the nonlinear parameters of ocean waves, which are Skewness, Atiltness, Kurtosis and Spectrum band width parameter et al., are introduced, and the parameters are compared and discussed with some characteristic wave components, ie, significant wave height, maximum wave height, and so on. As a results, we know that the parameters describe nonlinear characteristics of observed wave spectrum broadly, are feebly related with occurrence of abnormal maximum wave height, namely freak event, however the Kurtosis, which is a degree of peakness of mode of surface elevation distribution, has better relationship than others.